Southern Africa Safari 2009

Like everything in life, my Adventure in Southern Africa has come to an end. Thankfully I have a lifetime of memories. I would be remiss if I didn't thank HLO Tours in Lake Mary, Florida and if I didn't let everyone know that Hamdy Nossair, President of HLO Tours is a great tour operator. He worked very hard planning the trip, and kept busy during the trip so that everyone of us would have that lifetime of memories. He and Ellie Leinaweaver of Focus Travel Club had to have worked for many months to create such a great trip. This adventure was my second with Hamdy and my third with Ellie and the group. As many of you know, I used to do Southern California tours for the eighth graders at several Bureau Schools. I know how much work our 5 day tours were. Planning a 21 day trip on another continent is beyond most of my comprehension. Hamdy and Ellie are both perfectionists and work very hard to make sure that we have amazingly memorable trips in Africa any beyond. They both work long hours during the trip and ensuring that we never have to wonder what to do. We do have plenty of free time and are given great suggestions of safe places to go.

My first overall observance has to do with PERCEPTION. That is "immediate or intuitive recognition or appreciation, as of moral, psychological, or aesthetic qualities; insight; intuition; discernment." I was able to visit Cape Town, Robben Island, the Apartheid Museum, and Victoria Falls. In South Africa there are whites, colored, and blacks. And Apartheid found a very destructive means of separating these groups. Coloreds might be mixed race, they might be Indian or Pakistani, they might be Chinese. Whites might be light skinned Europeans, they might be Japanese. Blacks might be from one of many tribes--who were grouped together much like the US did with our 'American Indians'. If that wasn't hard enough to understand, there were also the Afrikaans. Some Apartheid started in the late 1920's and didn't end until the 1990's. On his release from Robben Island Prison, Nelson Mandella told the people of South Africa to move on from Apartheid and live with Reconciliation. In less than 20 years the voice of many white South Africans have had to change from calling Mandella and the ANC (African National Congress) Terrorists to Heroes. Blacks and Coloreds have moved from Freedom Fighters to Heroes. It is all about perception. When the Dutch, French, Brits arrived in the area they renamed everything. Mosi-oa-tunya (The Smoke that Thunders) was renamed Victoria Falls by a Scotsman. After his death an island was changed from 'The place of rest and shade' became Livingstone Island. Like so many who have invaded or colonized, the native language was ignored. It's all about perception.

“If there are dreams about a beautiful South Africa, there are also roads that lead to their goal. Two of these roads could be named Goodness and Forgiveness.“

“Never, never and never again shall it be that this beautiful land will again experience the oppression of one by another.“ ~Nelson Mandela

I have a friend who has traveled and had some unusual experiences. She has told me about them, and I found them interesting. When I was on Robben Island, standing in Nelson Mandela's cell, I had an unusual experience.

As I was standing in the prison, I could feel myself getting angry and sad at the same time. I am not the kind of person who does that. I suddenly realized that, even though I lived through the Civil Rights changes here during the 60’s, I never really understood what was happening. While I could easily talk the talk, I never had to walk the walk. My two minute or less cell time makes it hard for me to forgive. I will never understand how one group of human beings can possibly oppress another group of human beings. Knowing that it happened, seeing that it happened, standing in that cell, I don’t know how anyone could forgive. Nelson Mandela has changed the world. He opened eyes and hearts. He always has worked to ensure freedom for all. Amazing.

Robben Island has allowed many to see and hear and feel the Apartheid times. After a short boat ride to the island we were greeted by a man who had worked on Robben Island during Mandela’s imprisonment. He told stories of what happened to the many prisoners who had been placed there. He told how the many nations of the world worked to end apartheid. Scotland began a boycott of South Africa’s fruit in 1959. The AAM—anti-apartheid movement—continued until the end of apartheid. In 1973 the United Nations stated that the South African Apartheid was a crime against humanity. The US never signed that document. Reagan even supported the white government. In 1986, after the ANC had started using a violent approach to end apartheid, our congress passed an Anti-apartheid bill that called for the end to the violence by the ANC and said the US would work to find a peaceful resolution to end South African Apartheid. Apartheid did not end until 1994.

After touring the island, we entered the prison. We were greeted by another former Robben Island resident. He had been a political prisoner. Now he did tours of the place he had lived because he believed in freedom. While his stories were horrifying, he, like Mandela, had forgiven. His fight for freedom had taken him to prison, then freedom came and now he was free to tell his story, the story of apartheid, the story of reconciliation.

On June 26, 1876 the US Calvary suffered one of its greatest defeats in Montana. While in Elementary school I learned about Custer and the Battle of the Little Big Horn. I was working in Pine Ridge South Dakota one June 26th many years later. On that day, Lakota Tribal Offices were closed. This was the annual Victory Day Holiday. It’s all about perception. Now I realize that the Lakota had no Nelson Mandela, had no Martin Luther King, had no Gandhi, and had no one that stood out to lead them to reconciliation, to lead them to forgiveness. I also realize the conquerors didn’t have a chance to hear that message either. So the anger, frustration, and fear continue.

A good head and a good heart are always a formidable combination.

After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb.

Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world.

~Nelson Mandela

I barely made my connection from Phoenix to Flagstaff via a shuttle bus. Luckily for me, it was raining and snowing on I-17 and the shuttle was about 15 minutes late. As I started wheeling my two bags to the shuttle, the attendant taking to the bus asked if I needed any help. I said no, I had just gotten back from South Africa and was getting pretty good at traversing the airports. Turns out one of the other passengers was a young college age girl who was born and raised in Johannesburg. She was Afrikaans who came to the US about 8 years ago. We spoke for a few minutes on the way to the shuttle and in the shuttle. According to her, the political system had led to her family’s leaving. She couldn’t imagine why I would want to visit there or any of the other countries around South Africa. She truly believed that all the ‘good’ South Africans had left and that the ‘new’ government had ruined her homeland. It was sad to hear this articulate young woman (who was born during Apartheid and left soon after it ended) was unable to accept the changes.

A safari is so amazing. For a total of 9 days we got up every morning about 5am and in the jeep by 5:30. The morning drive lasted until about 10am. We always stopped about half way though for hot coffee. On rainy days we needed it. We then came back to camp and had a great breakfast. About 4pm we headed out again and returned soon after dark—about 7:30pm. Two of the three camps/lodges had an open Toyota or land cruiser with a driver and a tracker. The other lodge, in Chobe National Park, only had a driver. Some of the vehicles had no roof, some had a canvas roof. We were told to stay in the vehicle at all times, not to stick out our arms or legs, not to stand up, and to remain quiet. Each guide told us that the animals were used to the vehicle noise and the vehicle shape and knew that it would not harm them. Most of the time, the animals were within 10 yards of the vehicle. On several occasions they were within five feet of the vehicle. The drivers were correct; we only had one young male elephant spend any time checking us out. All the others just ignored us. We could watch them as long as we wanted to. On one of our morning trips we came upon another vehicle with a flat tire. They were watching a herd of impala. Our driver parked to help. She quietly exited the vehicle and walked along side our vehicle. As soon as her profile broke the jeep profile, the impala were off and running. On another occasion, a vehicle got stuck while coming out of the small river bed canyon. We had been watching a leopard from about 20 feet as it slept. Our vehicle had to be maneuvered so that our driver could get out of the vehicle and lock the hubs on the other vehicle. To block the leopard’s line of sight he pulled in so that we were only about 10 feet from the leopard. It was dusk, then dark. The trackers kept the spotlight on the leopard while our driver worked his way around. Within 15 minutes he had locked the hubs, attached a steel rope to the stuck jeep and pulled it out. We almost missed dinner that night, but the adventure would have been worth missing one dinner. Watching a pro in action made us feel safe—after the ordeal ended. During the ordeal, not so much.

At two of the camps we were lucky enough to see all the Big Five, up close and personal. The big five are the lion, the leopard, the elephant, the giraffe, and the Cape Buffalo. At all of the camps we also saw dozens of zebra, impalas, kudus, warthogs, waterbucks, dik-diks, steenboks, springbok, baboons, monkeys, and wildebeest. I am not a birder, but we did see and hear many of them too. We saw the ground birds and the tree birds. There were a variety of hornbills, a variety of eagles, vultures, heron, weaver, and guinea fowl.

I had another unusual experience while on Safari. At Honeyguide, a tent camp, Greg, our ranger, was cruising down the road. Either he or the tracker spotted a white Rhino. We had already been told that the white rhino will not be white, but grayish. Oh I how love linguistics. Turns out that there are five species of rhinos—two of which are the white rhino and the black rhino. One of their major differences is their mouths. One of the rhinos has a very wide mouth to help it eat and the other has much a smaller mouth to help it eat. One munches on taller grass, the other on shorter grass. When English speakers first saw Ceratotherium simum they noted its wide mouth. Over time, through mispronunciation, the wide mouth rhino became known as the white rhino. Wide/white is close. As people began calling it the White Rhino, they also discovered Diceros bicornis and since there was already a White Rhino, it made some kind of sense to call the new rhino the Black Rhino. The black rhino is also not black, but grayish.

So, back to the unusual experience. Our guides had told us that they each had a favorite of the Big 5. When I saw this first of several rhinos we would see over the next few weeks, I was transfixed on it. Everyone else in the jeep had grabbed their cameras and video recorders. I just sat there, staring at this huge animal. If I didn’t know better, I would still believe that the rhino was staring right into me—not the vehicle, not the other passengers, not the tracker…just at me. I stared so long that I almost didn’t get any pictures. This did not happen with any other of the Big 5. It didn’t happen with any other animals I had seen. We spotted other rhinos and each time, I felt a connection. I understood why the guides had a favorite. An amazing experience.

Another quick linguistic story. At another camp our tracker was a Zulu. He had intermediate English skills but was more than willing to practice them. We had just seen some elephants. I asked me for the Zulu word for elephant. It was several syllables long, and while I tried to repeat it, it was not to be. He did smile when I tried, and gave a little laugh. I’m sure I said something very dirty. My next question was “What does it mean?” He gave me a strange look and simply said ‘elephant’. Dumb tourist—asks me how to say elephant in my language, I say it, tourist says dirty word, and is so stupid he asks me what my word means. Luckily, our guide spoke fluent Zulu and told me it means ‘big animal.’ I told him I was expecting something more descriptive—long nose or something. He said nope, just ‘big animal’. I then asked him to explain our conversation to the tracker, he did and everyone got a good laugh. I did ask the guide what I had said, and his only comment was ‘you don’t want to know.’ It’s all about perception.

It is still hard for me to adjust to the winter temps we are having in Flagstaff. Last night we went down to about 18°, as we have every night since I got back. We rose to a sweltering 46° but the 13mph winds made it feel much colder. I also picked up my mail today. What a pile I had to go though. One might begin to think that Christmas is just around the corner.

Yeah, it's that big. As one guide told us, You ain't braggin when you are draggin'.

Elephants are really big. You may think you already knew that, but until you have been in the wild with them, you really don’t. Unless of course you have taken a ride on one. We had to get up early to take our elephant ride—left camp about 6am to get to the elephants about 6:15. The elephants were rescue elephants. It all started at Kampara when one of the reserve guides decided to take care of an orphaned, isolated one. After raising this elephant, it became attached to humans and could not return to the wild. Over the years other elephants were added. They are very social animals and all in the herd take care of others. They currently have about 15 elephants and 20 or so handlers. To prevent bonding by either the handlers or the elephants, handlers all use the exact same commands with the elephants and change elephants regularly. If an elephant bonds with a human, and then the human leaves, the suffer grief—not a good thing. Upon arrival we watched the elephants go through their morning exercises.

After my camel ride in Egypt, I was really wondering how I was going to get up on the huge elephant. Turns out, they you climb up a staircase and just step over to sit up there. Much easier than the camel that kneels down and then gets up. The elephant then walks on a trail, eats trees, drinks water, and walks on the trail. They don’t seem to even know they have riders. The view of the bush while sitting on an elephant is unbelievable. It is a little strange when they step into a watering hole and drink. A novice rider never knows if they are going to drink the water, fill their trunk and spray their back, or decide it is time for a swim. Of course the handler knows that all they are going to do is drink.

Elephants cool themselves through their ears. The back of their ears have huge blood vessels and when the elephants heat up, they flap their ears. The blood is cooled as it pumps through the thin ears. Very efficient.

Elephants have a very easy gait for riding. This is very encouraging, as it is a long way to the ground. As we were riding my elephant was hungry. The trunk twists around the branch of the tree, snap, the branch is in his mouth. Leaves are quickly removed, bark is twisted off, and the branch is tossed away. Of course the elephant gets treats from the handler. Sometimes, when the elephant wants a treat, he will provide the handler with a branch—minus the leaves and most of the bark. I guess they think the handler likes the part of the branch they don’t. Up comes the trunk and branch. It is waved around a little, the handler takes the branch and the trunk sniffs around waiting for a treat.

Lions, of course, are one of the Big 5 in Southern Africa. On this trip I was given the opportunity to see lions up close and personal. There was no fence, no barrier between me and the King of the jungle, his mate, and his offspring. These views were incredible. They were imposing while being intimidating. I was yet again overwhelmed on several occasions.

We saw lions from an open jeep. We were able walk with the lions at a conservation project. First the ones we saw from the jeep. Without our excellent trackers at the reserves or parks, they could have been easily missed. On one occasion we tracked a lion for about 90 minutes. The tracker was finding fresh tracks. He knew the general area the lion enjoyed—however that area was several thousand acres. We never did find that lion. When I did my archery hunts, I learned, to some degree, how to read tracks and poop. I had also learned to read tracks in Boy Scouts. On one occasion I was in a canyon, hunting javelin in AZ and while in a deep canyon, came across a mountain lion track. My friend said they were fresh, and we left the canyon. Now in Africa, we follow them.

We first saw two lionesses under a tree, resting. All that movie stuff is just that. Lions like to sleep and rest, especially when it is hot or rainy or cool, or daytime or they have eaten within the last three days. These lions were a good 40 yards away, but thanks to my binoculars I could watch them breathe. They could care less that we were there. We were not a threat. They were resting. No need to move, no need to leave, no need to bother us. Just a need to rest. Another sighting had a small pride of about 8. It was too early for cubs, though several females were ready to drop. They were just walking in the grass, looking for more shade and a place to rest. One was favoring her left rear leg. The guide checked it out with binoculars, and her ankle was pretty swollen. Probably an injury from a recent kill, but nothing life threatening. These animals were only about 20 yards from us and again didn’t care that we were there. Another sighting had two lionesses stalking a giraffe. The lions were about 30 yards away on one side of the road in some shade. The giraffe was about 10 yards in front of us, on the other side of the road. Our guide told us that lions were very patient. We watched them about 15 minutes, and while they always kept an eye on the giraffe, they only moved about 5 yards in the low dry grass. Lazy or patient, they were not in a hurry to make the kill. We moved on.

We visited a conservation site in Zambia. Its goal is to provide rehab for lions, allow the lions to breed, and eventually release the lions back into the wild. Political Aside: The project started in Zimbabwe, and it was nice to learn that something good was happening in that country. The project is called “Walk with the Lions.” After a 30 minutes presentation about what to expect, what to do and what not to do, we were broken into two groups and went for the walk. The list of don’ts was very long. Basically it was don’t panic, stay quiet, and stand still if there is a problem. A problem means that one of the lions decides that you are something to play with and might do that. Panic or loud noise could change the play to something much more serious. We made a single file line and followed a trail. Soon we had three lions (one male and two females) laying under a tree, resting. They were about 2 years old, making them pre-teens. It was about 90 degrees F. They really didn’t want to walk. They just wanted to rest. Luckily they are well fed in this phase of the project. They finally did walk with us, along the trail. They would wander off, one of the guides would encourage them to return to us and they did. We stopped about four times, in shady areas, to learn about them and the project. Each time we stopped, so did the lions, appearing to agree with the need to rest in the shade. Each time we stopped, we were allowed to pet the lions. We would get right down to their level and were able to rub their sides, and their back. Everyone enjoys a good back rub, and these lions were no exception. While we were busy rubbing one lion, the other two would play, jostle, and simply enjoy the shade and each other.

If you don’t believe all this--just google ‘walk with the lions’. You will find out more about the program, its stages as the lions are prepared for return to the wild. You can even volunteer to work there. When I signed up for the ‘walk’ I thought the $150US price tag for 90 minutes was a little pricey. Upon arrival we learned that all the money goes to the project for food, and needs of the lions. After the walk, the price was worth every kwacha, and a whole lot more, for the experience.

I have been talking to friends here in Flag since my return last week. I have made up a little display bag that I take with me that shows some of the art and trinkets I picked up over there. I am just now beginning to realize how truly fortunate I am to have visited the area. I saw so many animals, in the wild. I had my eyes opened to the horrors of Apartheid. I walked through some amazing history. Each day I spend some time working with my pictures and videos. I am still waiting to figure out how to pull this trip together. On my first blog about Africa, I said a miracle would happen to help me share my adventure. I continue to wait.

Before we went into the bush…

I visited a museum that showed the history of Africa...where all of mankind's civilizations began.

I visited an Ostrich Farm. They are interesting to watch and their eggs have been made into beautiful art. The use of their feathers in women’s apparel took me back to the heyday of Hollywood, long before I was born. I also tasted some Ostrich and it wasn’t bad. I never did understand the ostrich leather shoes, gloves, wallets, and purses.

I visited the place where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans merge. The wind was blowing about 50-70mph when we were there. I really had to brace myself when taking a picture. A group of Asian tourists were having a lot of trouble clicking away. None were hurt, but several were blown over or blown down. My life in Boulder, CO and on the rez had taught me how to move around in those winds.

I visited a penguin reserve. It was only a few miles kilometers Cape Point, so was also very windy. The birds came to a beach many years ago and so liked it that they just stayed. I would have chosen a less windy place to live, but then, I’m not a penguin. They had quite a difficult time climbing small sand hills. It could have been the fine sand, or the wind, or a combination of both.

I visited South African Wine Country. I did wine and cheese tasting, I walked to the vineyards; I had an opportunity to learn about the many South African wines. I learned about local cheese that goes with the local wines. The one cheese I will never forget was a soft cheese with curry. I will not forget it because it was the worst cheese I had ever tasted—and I am a big fan of limburger. I did enjoy several of the wines. As one of our group said, “I only like one kind of beer…cold.” I would say, “I only like one kind of wine…wet.”

I have read about Victoria Falls. I have seen pictures. I have even seen them on video. I was not prepared for Mosi-oa-tunya—the smoke that thunders. We were on the Zambia side. It was the dry season. From the visitor’s views at the falls, they were not as spectacular as I had hoped. We had been told that this time of year you can see what is really behind the falls, the gorges, the drop, the natural beauty. That alone was worth the time we spent there. It was very hot on the day we were there. There were signs warning us that the trail, the steps, the overviews were ‘slippery when wet.’

I have never liked heights. During my swim team days, I enjoyed the low board but never liked the high dive. Walking the trail at the Grand Canyon with its steep drop offs is not something I would do every day. I will avoid standing on a ladder more than 10 feet. As a principal, I once had to go onto the flat roof of a one story building, along with inspectors, to ensure that a repair job was completed. I was fine, until I had to go near the edge.

The drop at the falls is between 260 to 350 feet. That is like looking out a 17 story to 24 story building. In the area where the water was falling, it was hard to tell how far that actually is. The mist covers so much of the fall. In the area where the falls are dry, the drop is breathtaking. Since the falls are over a mile wide, when running full, there are many places to view them.

Dr. David Livingstone saw the falls for the first time in November 1855, just about the same time we were there. The falls had been known as the ‘smoke that thunders’ by the locals. We got into small boats and took a ride to Livingstone Island, formerly known as ‘the place of rest and shade’. The river was very low, and they had to use very small boats to navigate the river. A few weeks after we left the visits to the island would end due to the rapid rise in the river. We walked across the rocks. We walked to the edge of the gorge. There was no fence, no trail, just natural black basalt rock. I was happy to stand about 3 feet from the edge. We wandered around on the rocks, found several beautiful spots for pictures. We walked to the river where it was cascading over the edge. This was the Victoria Falls I had heard about and seen in so many pictures. Had I gone to the Falls when they were running full, I never would have had this thrill, this experience.

I have to mention Andy at this point. Andy celebrated his 88th birthday while on our trip. Andy is amazing. He flew a bomber in WWII. He got into real estate in California after the war. His son married Elvira Mistress of the Dark—the TV icon. He has led an incredible life. He was the only one in our group who went swimming at the falls. He was swimming, with lifeguards, only a few feet from the falls drop off in a natural pool. The next morning, while I was in a helicopter, Andy was doing the ultra-light. That is like a flying lawn mower. One is harnessed in, with feet dangling, as one flies over the falls with a pilot who is also just harnessed in. Andy really reminded me of my own grandfather. He worked hard and now he is enjoying his life. He would lecture me about how I shouldn’t be drinking Coke, then would buy me wine. He never forgot anything. He would tell great stories to anyone who would listen. He could be very stubborn and while he was a great guy and a lot of fun, he and I never could have worked for him. He was way too stubborn.

Thanks to UNESCO for making Mosi-oa-Tunya / Victoria Falls* a world heritage site for all.

Before I end my African story, I need to again thank so many people. First is Hamdy and HLO Tours. Without his hard work and planning, this trip would not have happened. Ellie needs to be thanked, again, for finding such a diverse group of travelers who travel so well together. Theo was such a hoot on this trip. I can’t wait to get her trip presentation. And then there is Wyoma. She got bumped at DC and found us two days later in South Africa. How she ever got the DC Passport bureaucrats to work on a Saturday, I will never know. I hope no one was injured. She is just such a tiny pistol. Tamzin was always there with a good comment and a smile. Andy and Arlene kept us all on our toes. Arlene has some great stories, and I do hope I will be able to visit her home on my next trip. Tom and Bonnie were with us for much of the trip, and they sure added some great times to our adventure. Bryan and Debbie were great too. Bryan always had a good line to add, and Debbie just smiled. Last, but not least were Roberto and Rita. They were able to find humor and laughter in even the hardest of situations—especially the bug/snake issue.

The other people who made the trip so enjoyable were those who work so hard at their jobs everyday to make our visit enjoyable. I have become facebook friends with Greg and Richard from Honeyguide. Turns out we were the last group Greg worked with there. He is headed for Belgium to be with his gal. Richard too has fallen in love. Ah, to be young again. Brett, our guide at the private reserve, taught us so much. He grew up on a farm, learned to speak Zulu at a very young age, and really enjoys his job. He really wanted us to see the male lion. I don’t know which was most impressive about him—his stopping and assisting in tracking and coming back pumped or helping his fellow guides when they got stuck. In both cases he was so professional. Of course, parking next to a sleeping leopard at dusk, or near several lions that had just finished a meal was pretty cool too. At Chobe, Hamdy and I were on our own, but I got to see wild dogs at a fresh kill. The guides there were good, but simply picked people up, took them on the drive, and then dropped them off at the hotel. It was the only time on the trip that I felt like just another tourist. Still it was worth it to see the wild dogs and of course the huge herd of elephants. And the walk in the town, while hot, was very enlightening.

I was able to meet a cab driver who had come home from elementary school to find his house had been leveled during Apartheid. I met a young Zulu cab driver who taught us about the Zulu courting procedures and what has to be done to marry. It was not that different that traditional Navajo courtship. I learned about class—if not caste—systems. We met a hotel asst. manager who was leaving Zambia to work at Disney’s Epcot Center in Florida. She was so excited to be getting a job that paid $8/hr. She will be part of the culture exchange that Disney does there. I do hope that she has a good experience. It will be so different than Africa. I visited a small school that reinforced that kids are kids and little kids are little kids, no matter where you travel. These kids, despite their difficult lives in poverty, had an enthusiasm, a light in their eyes, and a joy for life and learning. I saw lots of billboards regarding AIDS, contraception, safe sex, and heard stories of how that disease has destroyed so many lives.

I will never have a trip like this again. I saw so much and so many totally different aspects of Africa. I saw nature that was unbelievable. Animals of all sizes and foliage waiting for those desperately needed rains. I saw the necessity of the rivers as I traveled by various sized boats. I saw the footprint that man has placed on this continent where all mankind began. I saw the destructive side of man when one group wants to control another. I saw how many are working to make that footprint as unobtrusive as possible. I saw that many traditional customs can and do continue. I saw how technology has changed poverty. I have a much better understanding of Africa. I have a much better understanding of history and I have had my eyes opened in ways I never expected. All of this, I believe, has made me a better person. Thanks to everyone for this experience.

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To see the full presentations of my South African Adventure Click Here

There are three videos, soon to be four. I hope you enjoy them.